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KNIT ENGINEERING

Timeline
7 weeks (March-April ‘22)

Independent Project

Tools
Natural & Synthetic Yarns
Silver Reed Double Bed Knitting Machine
Adobe Illustrator, Adobe Photoshop

Skills
Textile Engineering, Sample Development, Prototyping, Technical Knit Structure Drawing, Color Development, Visual Display, Computer-Assisted Design, Double-Bed Knitting, Application Sketching

THE PROBLEM

Most function-specific fabrics for apparel and home textiles are woven and not knit (with an exception in certain industries such as performance footwear).

THE PROJECT

This project aims to developing structural knitted fabrics that cater to different needs in specific industries through engineering form and structure.

THE APPROACH

Certain design challenges were taken, and through a process of research, ideation, prototyping, and testing there was a resolution that was reached. Each fabric developed was hand-crafted, and tested to ensure the functionality of the fabric.

The visual displays made for each fabric include the design challenge, design application, and a brief overview of the formal qualities of the fabric.

The knitted fabric were engineered to create fabrics with:

high absorbency
layered yarn variation
ventilation in thick fabrics
durability yet lightweightedness
striping without color variations, but rather with lace patterns
surface pattern and texture on outer-facing sides only
ornate body shaping and trim finishings with minimal labor

THE IMPACT

Reimagining and redefining the future of functional textiles by introducing engineering knitted fabrics to the paradigm, designing them to adapt to utilitarian needs, and configure in forms that are usually only engineered in woven fabrics.

CHALLENGE 1– Absorbency

“WAFFLE KNIT”

The “Waffle Knit” mimics the waffle weave structure to maximize absorbency in knitted fabrics.

︎︎︎3 SLIDES

CHALLENGE 2– Layering for Yarn Variations

“MASHRU KNIT”

The “Mashru Knit” mimics the Mashru weave structure to create two different surfaces in the knitted fabrics: one which front silk, and the other cotton.

︎︎︎2 SLIDES

CHALLENGE 3– Ventilation in Thick Fabrics

“AIR POCKET KNIT”

The “Air Pocket Knit” creates spaces to trap cool air, by facilitating uni-directional ventilation, even in a thick, woollen fabric.

︎︎︎1 SLIDE

CHALLENGE 4– Durability in Lightweight Fabrics

“GRAPHENE KNIT”

The “Graphene Knit” is inspired by the properties of Graphene: it is thin but also strong. The knitted fabric uses a double intertwining method to make the fabric 4x stronger and less likely to unravel, while still being thin, lightweight, and airy.

︎︎︎ 3 SLIDES

CHALLENGE 5– Striping with Lace

︎ “STRIPED LACE KNIT”

The “Striped Lace Knit” to create visual complexity through texture, without change in color or gauge.

︎︎︎2 SLIDES

CHALLENGE 6– Layering for Texture Variations

“MUSICAL KNITS”

The “Musical Knits” series layers two distinct textures of each surface of the fabric, to make the outer side vibrant, textured, and patterned, while the inner side is uniform and soft to the touch.

︎︎︎2 SLIDES

CHALLENGE 7– Shaping & Trim with Tension

“ELASTIC KNIT”

The “Elastic Knit” is a fabric that changes shape based on the body inhabiting it due to its qualities of stretchiness and malleablity. This is developed without any change in number of stitches making it efficient to mass-produce.

︎︎︎1 SLIDE

REFLECTION

Prototyping and testing are the key to successful design

Repeated sampling and fabric testing allowed each fabric to go through a process of iteration which helped me realise the weaknesses of the design at each stage, until they reached a place of functional competence.

References are vital in the process to design– to inspire, and drive creative energy

The inspiration from the qualities of other materials such as Mashru weaves, waffle weaves, and even graphene, allowed the design process to inspired when reaching road-blocks

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